Un Lugar ramp project

Today myself and 3 other volunteers visited some of the projects supported by Otra Cosa; namely a day care for poor families in Huanchaquito, Corporation Educacion Popular (C.E.P) in the shanty town of Ramon Castillas and the Tulio Herrera Leon school for the blind and disabled. Melissa and Dennis will be starting at the C.E.P school this week teaching sports to the kids and helping to construct parts of the school, Mara will be at the school for the blind and disabled and Mary...well Mary just wants to volunteer for all because she's nice like that.

Later on in the evening, I went with Louise, Yann and Jess to the skate ramp to see for myself what is it that Louise has been hinting to me that didn't sound too good. After a good 30 minute walk which included some (many) steps uphill,

...there it was.

Man I can tell you it broke my heart to see these kids share 3 knocked up boards and flimsy guards on a ramp that was clearly falling apart. And the surrounding area is just all sand as you can see. On the other side of the walls are shanty houses and according to Louise, we have been accused before of "allowing" the kids to climb over to steal the neighbour's chickens.

This here is Abel, first to come and last to leave. He skates without shoes as do the other kids but is a keen learner and has picked up skating skills from Yann very quickly.

We don't have a first aid kit, we don't have running water... ball sacs, we don't even have a proper place for the kids to skate. All we have are 3 banged up boards, hula hoops (for the girls) and a bunch of kids from the shanty town who want to play. Seeing that both Louise and I will still be here for the next couple of months, we are determined to improve things for these kids somehow, someway.

P.S If you have anything at all that you think can help e.g. a Canadian cousin who's dating the step brother of a pro Peruvian skater based in Lima who might be able to share expertise, etc. don't be shy to be generous!

Sorry, no pictures

I got to Huanchaco late on Sunday night after a 9 hour journey on an incredibly comfortable bus. If you are one of those who worries about ground travel safety while in Peru, I would recommend Cruz del Sur (80 soles from Lima to Trujillo), one of the more reputable bus companies around. Sure you pay a little bit more compared to some other busses that can get you there for something like 20 soles but hey, you pay for what you get. Before that I spent 2 nights in Lima at Daniel's place where I met 2 other couch surfers from Argentina, Belen and Lucas. We had good fun walking the city practicing speaking English (Lucas) and Spanish (me), and we even got to dance the night away at a club called Dragon in Barranco. But more on Lima later.

In fact, more on everything else in between later. Now I am writing about the very reason I am here in the first place.

6 months ago when I left my ridiculously cushy job at one of the biggest urban radio stations in Malaysia, I got in touch with a few NGOs in South America with the intention of volunteering abroad as an English teacher. After some research and emails bouncing back and forth across the world, I decided to volunteer with Otra Cosa which is based here in Huanchaco. This is not a novel idea nor is it particularly noble so please don't give me credit. A lot of people choose to volunteer as they travel extensively, and this is something I hope I can start up as well when I go home to KL.

Before I got here, I had some reservations about signing a volunteer contract with Otra Cosa. These reservations heightened when I spoke to a former volunteer and some other locals. It didn't help either that I was asked to pay 400 soles as part of the volunteer contract. Why am I paying to volunteer? Where is the money going to? Will I get the placement that I want upon signing a contract?

Based on previous correspondence with the operations manager of Otra Cosa prior to arriving in Peru, it was agreed that I would be involved in the Corporation de Educacion Popular located in one of Trujillo's shanty towns and Un Lugar Ramp project which is a skate ramp built for the kids. Somehow though, from the little donuts of information that I got plus (sometimes trustable) gut feeling, I just felt that I needed to know exactly what I was getting myself into before deciding on anything. I know, seems a bit too late isn't it? After travelling half the world to come here. Well thankfully tonight I got a clearer picture when I met with some of the other volunteers.

Due to confidentiality of some information shared, I can't mention everything that was discussed tonight but here's the verdict: in most organizations, regardless of mission and purpose, there is bound to be some amount of disorganization going on. Hey that was quite ironic - disorganized organization; I feel so hipster all of a sudden. Moving along. If you want to drop everything to do volunteer work, my advice is to ask every question you can think of before deciding which organization is best for you. Remember, you are not obliged to sign any contract or pay any fee unless you are perfectly comfortable and sure that this is what you want. It is true that you can't put a price on charity but at the same time, it is also true that you can't be made to put a price on your own charity. That said, tomorrow I will take my own advice and speak to Najin, the operations manager.

You know I am always humbled by the fact that there are truly good people who go out of their way to try to put things in order as best as they can. I am glad to have met some of them tonight and hope to learn more during my stay here in Huanchaco.

P.S Thanks to the oh so wonderful Carmen Lorrente, I am now staying in a lovely house with a room that enters from a garden. Less words, more pictures in next post, promise.

Reason #5 Why NYC is a Great City to Live In

The Strand. 18 miles of books. 3 storeys. Good prices. Since 1927. 'Nuff said.

We can't let those poor trees die in vain.

The books can outdo you in a marathon.

Resume your book shopping outside with $1 bargains.

Forgive me o bank account for I have sinned.

These books saved my life tonight by keeping me warm when I got off the wrong subway stop and was lost finding my way home in the snow:

To get to The Strand bookstore, take the N, R, 4, 5, 6 or L train to Union Square and walk to 12th street (on Broadway). Right after that hop across the street to Così cafe for a mug of hot chocolate. But I recommend splurging a little and indulging at Max Brenner's which is right next door.

I could really use a Doraemon right now

There's an episode in the Doraemon manga I used to read where one of the tools the fat cat gave Nobita was a sword that could cut you into half, and that created 2 downsized versions of you. If you wanted you could continue cutting yourself down, effectively creating an entire army of mini yous. If I had that sword now I would cut myself into half, and have one half kick the other half. And then repeat the action with the other half kicking the other half. Then I'll let myselves take a 15 minute break and start over again.

Okay. It's time to confess. Everyone has been asking the same question in different ways and I suppose now would be the best time to get it out since the great big elephant is just about to begin.

"How are you funding your trip?"

Vell. Meagre savings. Good people who let me sleep on their couches. Fabulous friends back home who collect and bank in cheques for me. A very patient ex boyfriend who is taking care of the phone bill (for now only!). And of course, my mum and the rest of my family who have helped me in more ways than I can count.

Money is indeed a huge factor when it comes to travelling. I can't keep track of the countless times people have said to me, I wish I can do what you're doing but... Well, trust me, you can. With good planning ahead of time and keeping careful checks on your cash flow, anybody can travel. Of course I can only claim truth on this hypothesis because of the unwise choices I have made that have cost me some money. Today is an excellent example.

I spent the whole day indoors not just because it's 6°C outside but because it took me a whole day to book a bloody flight ticket out of New York. O brilliant 2% capacity used brain of mind decided yesterday that I have had enough of being in this city and must fly out to Lima on Friday. After much searching, I found the cheapest fare at $500. Unfortunately, this site only accepted US/Canadian credit cards. Fine, I borrowed Samuel's (whom I'm staying with now) card to make a booking only to find out that it is not possible to make a 3rd party booking because the departure date is less than 7 days away.

So that left me with 3 options:

#1 Stay another week in New York, which would mean incurring extra expenses, just so I can book the $500 ticket out next week

#2 Take Spirit airline which costs about the same but on Saturday because that's the only flight they have (By the way besides Eastern China, I have never seen more crappy reviews on any other airline.)

#3 Buy another flight to Lima that departs Friday. Only this costs $700.

Of course #1 and #2 were possible...IF

#1 I had not already purchased a bus ticket from Lima to Trujillo that leaves Sunday noon

#2 I had not already arranged for accommodation in Lima over the weekend

#3 I had not already informed the organization I'll be volunteering with that I would be arriving in Huanchaco for the induction on the 29th.

Now you understand why I could use the Doraemon sword right now? And also how good planning can save you a lot of money?

The honest truth is I have a ridiculously small amount of money and a ridiculously big amount of faith. I'm still trying to figure out if both make a good marriage. I'll let you know once I find out. Till then, take a listen to this song by my favourite lesbian couple who do make a good marriage, The Ditty Bops:

New Yorkers

It's only been a week but already I know that what I love most about this city is the people. I don't know how New Yorkers got a bad rep for being unfriendly because that's not what I found out. I mean sure, this is the city where you can walk the streets in a tutu with a unicorn on a leash and no one will give you a second glance...unless that person is a child/big fan of unicorns/visiting NYC the first time. But just because they don't care doesn't mean they're not nice.

It's easy to strike up a conversation anywhere in New York; the subway, restaurants, even crossing the street. Just yesterday I was at Times Square and picked up a piece of paper that flew from a news stand. I returned it to the dude behind the counter, we chatted for a bit and he gave me a Milky Way bar. Then there was the guy working at the American Folk Art museum who, upon finding out that I wasn't local, offered to be my tour guide in the city.

And of course there are the numerous street musicians and homeless people who seem to be more than happy just to talk about their lives or tell you funky stories. Like this guy on Union Square.

Nu Yawk city fun with a vintage feel

It's been 5 days since I've arrived in NYC at the start of spring. 16°C with lots of sun, I was brave enough to leave my grandmarry socks at home on Thursday. And to inebriate things more, literally, it was St Patrick's day.

St Paddy's in NYC is just flat out mad. There's a parade on 5th Avenue in the morning and New Yorkers take to the streets in ridiculous green things. Okay maybe I'm a bit too generous with the word ridiculous but the image of the big white guy in the subway dressed in bright green tights is still imprinted on my brain.

Anyway. Before I joined in the revelry myself, I decided to go check out some vintage thrift shops. First stop: Vintage Thrift Shop. ("Hey honey let's start a shop selling old things for cheap." "Good idea! You mean like vintage thrift?" "Yea, exactly. What shall we call it?" "Ummm let's see how about....Vintage Thrift?" "Hm. Something's missing. How about adding "shop"?" "Perfect!")

Vintage Thrift Shop is a non profit that benefits the United Jewish Council on the East Side. Online reviews describe the shop as "upscale thrift". First thought: what the hell is upscale thrift? Will this be another KL hipster trap where I'm supposed to pay $50 for a Bon Jovi CD? (vintage what) Or am expected to believe that the Hairspray tshirt is really vintage and not from FOS where I could've sworn I've seen it before?

Luckily, no. Here are some of the things that chipped off pieces of my brittle heart.

This beautiful trunk looks like it's from the early 40's and has very nice detailing.

It's tagged at only $150.

Good quality shoes ranging from $20 upwards.

Puff the magic dragon may or may not be hiding in this $25 trunk.

No they're not mouldy. The feet things are actually felt.

This was my favourite item in the shop. A shabby chic iron stand lamp, with a pretty base.

Such a nice touch with the glass crystals.

The iron stand can easily be repainted. After you've hit someone on the head with it.

And of course, all self respecting hipsters would have to have one of these vintage spectacles frames. Going from $10 onwards.

I didn't look much into the clothes section but anything tutu screams classy to me.

Hide your money in this little drawer. The thieves will be fooled.

The china bowl had nowhere to sit.

Such beautiful detailing on this couch. And it wasn't too expensive too, but I forgot how much.

Vintage Thrift Shop is located on 286 3rd avenue. To get there, take the 6 train and get off at 23rd street. You might also want to drop into Housing Works, another thrift shop that's very nearby. It's bigger, stocks more furniture items and you can see it as you're walking to Vintage Thrift from the subway station.

Mumbai

11^th March 2011 – On the way to Mumbai

I am at this moment on the train Mumbai bound. Because we are cheap, we chose to take the non a/c 3rd class cabin which is interesting. Interesting here meaning hot and dusty, with a constant stream of vendors and beggars walking through the aisles. And the view. Oh, the view...

If you want to see a fraction of the real India, this is it.

(I actually had a video to go with this but having a bit of trouble with it so will post it up later.)

13th March 2011 – One Day In Mumbai

We got off Victoria Terminus last night at 10pm and paid too much, too much, for our cab ride to the hotel (Rs.150, should’ve only been Rs50). We wanted to go to Colaba at first where all the hotels are at but the taxi driver insisted on taking us to cheaper hotels on Grant Road. Obviously he was getting a cut for bringing customers over but we were too desperate for a shower to argue.

The rooms at Welcome Hotel were equally small but what mattered most was the clean toilet so we agreed on 2 nights at Rs.3200. We were baffled at first at a very consistent, vocal lizard somewhere in the room. It was only the next morning that we found out it was no mutant lizard hiding in the ceiling, but the sound of our room buzzer. I later met a nice South African couple from Durban, Ravi and Shereen who told me that we could’ve stayed at Leo’s at Colaba for only Rs.1200 a night and not Rs.2000 onwards as the taxi driver told us.

The next day we explored Mumbai a bit on foot, got conned again by another cab driver, met up with Yogi from couchsurfing.org for beers and cricket at Café Mondegar, and had an indulgent high tea at the beautiful Taj hotel. I take back what I said about Mumbai before. I think it’s a badass city and have come to like it very much. Think Paris, but 47 times the dust and dirt.

After a fairly painless goodbye at midnight (well done Amrita!), I headed alone for the next leg of my journey – New York city. My lovely taxi driver whom we met that night in the city, Gufran Ahmet, had agreed to take me to the airport for only Rs350. On the 28km journey to the airport, he asked me to be his girlfriend. This extremely confident and charming 23 year old boy told me of how he came from a small village in Benares to Mumbai at age 16 to initially work in a garage. Now he drives a taxi on the night shift but is saving money to go find work in Sweden. I took his number and made him promise to take me to the slums where he lives the next time I come back to Mumbai. If you ever make a trip here, do give Gufran a call: +9819135299. Mention that you’re Juliana’s friend and he’ll take good care of you.

So I get to check in only to be told that my flight to NYC has been overbooked. The good staff at Emirates politely asked if I minded being put on the next flight and as compensation, I would be given a return flight from NYC to Mumbai at no extra charge, valid anytime within a year. To ease the waiting process, they will arrange for a stay at a nearby hotel. So sorry for the inconvenience ma’am but we hope you understand and will consider this offer.

Hm. Next flight in 16 hours. One more night in Mumbai. In a 5 star hotel. Complimentary flight ticket NYC - Mumbai. Would I mind very much? Well…

Here I am now by the poolside of the Hyatt, soaking up the last bits of sun before I hit the New York cold. I just had an amazing crepe suzette flamed in Honey Bee brandy at the Glass House restaurant. After a week of Rs.1500 rooms and dirty streets, I think you’d agree that there could not be any better way to leave India.

Anyway. Catching up on the news on TV at 6am this morning - Yemen, Japan, Cote d’Ivoire…so much can happen in 1 week; I got depressed and watched this instead.

5 point Mumbai survival guide:

#1 Don’t be afraid of the taxi drivers. Check with the locals or hotel staff how much the rides should cost to wherever your destination. If you’re not comfortable paying the price, don’t worry, taxis are everywhere. You don’t have to take the first offer you get.

#2 Have high tea at the Sea Lounge at the Taj. It is a beautiful hotel, the service is wonderful and the staff incredibly warm and friendly. Pay compliments to the old gentleman pianist and ask for Sheetal who will make you feel as comfortable as she can.

#3 Be nice. People in Mumbai are friendly and willing to help if you ask nicely. Even taxi drivers are more likely to give you a better price if you take the time to chat with them, as are the street vendors. You’d be surprised with the good bargains you can get just by asking where he/she is from.

#4 Remember that Rs.100 can go a longer way for someone else other than you. Sure we all don’t want to be taken as sucker tourists but if you can spare a few hundred rupees buying a street girl a tin of milk or bag of rice, you never know what karma can do for you. It might just put you up at a 5 star hotel and get you a free flight ticket.

#5 Fly Emirates.

First stop: Goa - Day 3

10th March 2011

Weak hearted hipsters, don’t watch this.

5 point Goa survival tip

#1 Get a torchlight. You’ll most probably be walking a lot of dark roads at night.

#2 If riding a bike to Anjuna after sundown, bring along a scarf. It gets chilly.

#3 Bring along insect repellent or at least mosquito coils. Malaria should not be taken lightly and you do not want to be stuck on a Goan hospital bed.

#4 Be careful with drugs in Goa. Of late, the narcotics police have been active, and this is not exclusive to locals only. Smoking some hashish discreetly is more or less okay as okay can be but you do not want to get caught with pills or coke. If you were to get caught though, it’d be good to have Rs50,000 with you for ah, administrative purposes. (You didn’t hear this from me.)

#5 Pay a visit to Greg’s café on Tivai Vaddo beach in Calangute. He’s the best.

First stop: Goa - Day 1

8^th March 2011

12.15am. We’re now sitting outside room 202 of the Queens of Queens guesthouse, just 3 minutes walk from Calangute beach. After some bargaining, we managed to get this pretty spacious room (more like a little apartment really) for Rs.1000 a night. What we didn’t count on was for the apartment to be stuffy and windowless with a manky ceiling fan that can be heard creaking from downstairs. I’m convinced there’s an air sucking monster hiding somewhere in the room that’s farting thick, odorless gas in a continuous stream. Oh well. At least the TV works, meaning we can catch up on repeats of MTV’s Roadies.

Goa is a nice place with plenty friendly people. It is divided into the south and north and where we’re at now is at the north. Calangute is one of the more beautiful beaches in Goa with small bars/cafes all along the stretch of sand. You can lie on the deck chairs for free but that would mean that you’re obliged to buy drinks and food from whichever bar your deck chair is situated in front of. Here in Goa, beer (Rs50, small) is cheaper than fresh juice (Rs.90, very small). We picked a nice spot at Greg’s bar and were entertained by young girls selling trinkets and strange half naked men offering to rub oil on us. Greg gave us a tip to ward them off: just say you’re from Bombay and you visit Goa every year. Of course this will only work if you don’t have almond eyes and yellow skin. Or, if you’re with an Indian friend.

Finding wi-fi here is tougher than getting a parking spot in 1utama on a Saturday afternoon so be prepared to pay for internet at a café. We did however stop by for some fro-yo at Cocoberry (India’s First Premium Frozen Yoghurt!) and were pleasantly surprised to find that they were equipped with wi-fi. Unfortunately the staff couldn’t give me the right password so we’re going back again tomorrow before hitting Anjuna beach, second home to Above & Beyond.

Maybe it’s the season, we don’t know, and according to the locals it’s pretty normal, but we were struck by the uncanny volume of old, decadent tourists in this part of Goa. And when I say old I mean the kind of old who don’t mind sunbathing topless because they just don’t care if anyone dies from the sight of wrinkly boobs on display. Hopefully we’ll meet some unwrinkly people tomorrow at Anjuna.

This morning upon arrival from Bangalore via a 12 hour bus, we took a taxi and met Anthony, the driver. We wanted to head to Anjuna at first but he advised us, “Anjuna for hippies, Calangute for tourists!” Despite the (now) questionable advice, he was extremely helpful, driving us to a few places before finding Queen of Queens. He has also managed to book last minute train tickets to Mumbai for us (Rs.400 each, no a/c) departing Friday morning at 10a.m. It only struck me later that we trustingly gave him Rs.800 for the tickets…and are expecting him to come back with them this Friday.

We have a valid reason for trusting Anthony actually. Watch this.