I am at this moment on the train Mumbai bound. Because we are cheap, we chose to take the non a/c 3rd class cabin which is interesting. Interesting here meaning hot and dusty, with a constant stream of vendors and beggars walking through the aisles. And the view. Oh, the view...
(I actually had a video to go with this but having a bit of trouble with it so will post it up later.)
13th March 2011 – One Day In Mumbai
We got off Victoria Terminus last night at 10pm and paid too much, too much, for our cab ride to the hotel (Rs.150, should’ve only been Rs50). We wanted to go to Colaba at first where all the hotels are at but the taxi driver insisted on taking us to cheaper hotels on Grant Road. Obviously he was getting a cut for bringing customers over but we were too desperate for a shower to argue.
The rooms at Welcome Hotel were equally small but what mattered most was the clean toilet so we agreed on 2 nights at Rs.3200. We were baffled at first at a very consistent, vocal lizard somewhere in the room. It was only the next morning that we found out it was no mutant lizard hiding in the ceiling, but the sound of our room buzzer. I later met a nice South African couple from Durban, Ravi and Shereen who told me that we could’ve stayed at Leo’s at Colaba for only Rs.1200 a night and not Rs.2000 onwards as the taxi driver told us.
The next day we explored Mumbai a bit on foot, got conned again by another cab driver, met up with Yogi from couchsurfing.org for beers and cricket at Café Mondegar, and had an indulgent high tea at the beautiful Taj hotel. I take back what I said about Mumbai before. I think it’s a badass city and have come to like it very much. Think Paris, but 47 times the dust and dirt.
After a fairly painless goodbye at midnight (well done Amrita!), I headed alone for the next leg of my journey – New York city. My lovely taxi driver whom we met that night in the city, Gufran Ahmet, had agreed to take me to the airport for only Rs350. On the 28km journey to the airport, he asked me to be his girlfriend. This extremely confident and charming 23 year old boy told me of how he came from a small village in Benares to Mumbai at age 16 to initially work in a garage. Now he drives a taxi on the night shift but is saving money to go find work in Sweden. I took his number and made him promise to take me to the slums where he lives the next time I come back to Mumbai. If you ever make a trip here, do give Gufran a call: +9819135299. Mention that you’re Juliana’s friend and he’ll take good care of you.
So I get to check in only to be told that my flight to NYC has been overbooked. The good staff at Emirates politely asked if I minded being put on the next flight and as compensation, I would be given a return flight from NYC to Mumbai at no extra charge, valid anytime within a year. To ease the waiting process, they will arrange for a stay at a nearby hotel. So sorry for the inconvenience ma’am but we hope you understand and will consider this offer.
Hm. Next flight in 16 hours. One more night in Mumbai. In a 5 star hotel. Complimentary flight ticket NYC - Mumbai. Would I mind very much? Well…
Here I am now by the poolside of the Hyatt, soaking up the last bits of sun before I hit the New York cold. I just had an amazing crepe suzette flamed in Honey Bee brandy at the Glass House restaurant. After a week of Rs.1500 rooms and dirty streets, I think you’d agree that there could not be any better way to leave India.
Anyway. Catching up on the news on TV at 6am this morning - Yemen, Japan, Cote d’Ivoire…so much can happen in 1 week; I got depressed and watched this instead.
5 point Mumbai survival guide:
#1 Don’t be afraid of the taxi drivers. Check with the locals or hotel staff how much the rides should cost to wherever your destination. If you’re not comfortable paying the price, don’t worry, taxis are everywhere. You don’t have to take the first offer you get.
#2 Have high tea at the Sea Lounge at the Taj. It is a beautiful hotel, the service is wonderful and the staff incredibly warm and friendly. Pay compliments to the old gentleman pianist and ask for Sheetal who will make you feel as comfortable as she can.
#3 Be nice. People in Mumbai are friendly and willing to help if you ask nicely. Even taxi drivers are more likely to give you a better price if you take the time to chat with them, as are the street vendors. You’d be surprised with the good bargains you can get just by asking where he/she is from.
#4 Remember that Rs.100 can go a longer way for someone else other than you. Sure we all don’t want to be taken as sucker tourists but if you can spare a few hundred rupees buying a street girl a tin of milk or bag of rice, you never know what karma can do for you. It might just put you up at a 5 star hotel and get you a free flight ticket.
#5 Fly Emirates.
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